Hyaluronic Acid (HA)

HA is a humectant, which means it's a product designed to retain and reduce loss of moisture. This one in particular sucks water from the air and brings it into your skin. It's capable of binding 1,000x its weight in water.

When applied to the skin, it fills the gaps between skin cells creating a plumping effect. This can smooth your face and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It also helps to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the evaporation of water from your skin.

HA is used as both a topical solution and an injectable filler. Sodium hyaluronate is HA's salt derivative, this is what you'll usually see in serums because of it's smaller molecular size. It's also less sticky.

Different Types of HA

• High Molecular Weight HA (HMW-HA): Larger molecules that stay on the surface of your skin, acting as a protective barrier.
• Medium/Low Molecular Weight HA (LMW-HA): Smaller molecules that penetrate the upper layers of your skin, which hydrates the deeper layers.
• Ultra-Low/Mini Molecular Weight HA (ULMW-HA): Tiny baby molecules that penetrate deepest for an intensely hydrating effect.

What it’s used for

• Hydration
• Temporary plumping
• Reducing tightness
• Smoothing
• Brightening

How to apply

Apply to slightly damp skin then seal with moisturizer.

Where it goes in routine

1. Cleanser
2. Toner or watery products
3. Lighter treatments
4. Hyaluronic acid
5. Moisturizer
6. Sunscreen, if morning

What to avoid

Don't put it on dry skin. Don't forget to moisturize after.

Topical: don't use if you have an active infection or inflamation or if you have a skin disorder like scleroderma (hardened skin).

Injections: avoid if you have a bleeding disorder or are on blood thinners, or if you're taking GLP-1's (like Ozempic)

How to shop for it

HA is like a fancy meal that is paired with a fine wine. Choose the pairing based on what you're looking for.

Soothing: HA + aloe.

Maximum hydration: HA + glycerin

Hydration & soothing: HA + panthenol, aka B5

Skin barrier repair & long-term moisture: HA + ceramides

Brightening, pore-reduction & oil control: HA + niacinamide

Scumbag verdict

I would call HA basic. It's overhyped and thrown in damn near everything as some anti-aging miracle. This isn't the fountain of youth, but it is helpful for hydration.